Black Winter Truffle
Varieties
We only sell the
nec plus ultra of black winter truffles: Tuber
melanosporum. Often referred to as "Périgord truffles" - an
anachronism and source of confusion as few truffles are actually
gathered in the Périgord region of France. The skin of the
melanosporum is comprised of a striking mosaic of interlocking
polygons. The flesh ranges from chocolate to nearly black
with delicate white veining. The aroma and flavor are
intoxicating and uniquely melanosporum.
We do not carry lesser winter
season truffles such brumale (Tuber brumale). The
aroma and flavor are less developed, less complex (and in some
varieties, such as the musk brumale, unappealing). Once washed the
brumale looks different from the melanosporum: lacking the well
defined coating of polygons - brumale's peridio (coating) flakes off
easily. The flesh (gleba) is lighter in color than the
melanosporum as well with more pronounced veins. Caveat Emptor:
while brumale are visually different from and therefore unlikely to
be mis-represented as melanosporum by scrupulous vendors, a "black
winter truffle" that does not explicitly state it is
melanosporum is undoubtedly something else.
A significant problem does
exist with mis-representation of the Chinese truffle (Tuber
indicum). This Chinese or Asian truffle (with perhaps a little
help from artificial coloring) looks very much like melanosporum -
so much so that they are imported into Europe from China and sold as
melanosporum to unwitting customers. However the Chinese
truffle has no appreciable aroma or flavor and so will fool no
one expecting a meaningful truffle experience. We do not sell
Chinese truffles - not ever.
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White Truffle
Varieties
When
considering white truffles we feel there is only one choice: the
prized white truffle Tuber magnatum pico - called Bianco Pregiato in
Italian. Magnatum pico grows in south-central Europe (chiefly north
and central Italy) maturing during the months of October, November
and December. The magnatum pico is the world's most expensive thanks
to its exceptional culinary merit; and its oft-mentioned resistance
to cultivation and hence rarity. To be sure the magnatum pico is
exquisite - and it is very rare. But it is not entirely uncultivated
and it is not predominately of the Piedmont any more than the
classic black Tuber melanosporum is of the Périgord in our time.
White Tuber magnatum pico truffles are not white. They have a creamy
cafe au lait colored irregular coating and a veined center (gleba)
that ranges from blond to chestnut depending on the type of tree the
truffle calls home. Favored trees include linden and oak.
White truffles
are softer and more perishable than their black cousins. They are
almost always served raw, though they should be gently warmed for a
few minutes to help disperse their intense bouquet. Because they are
so delicate (lacking a peridio or coating) it is of the utmost
importance that they are enjoyed as soon after harvest as possible.
Our white magnatum pico truffles are as fresh as possible - rushed
to the States the very same day they are gathered.
One more point: just as there are dozens of edible black
truffle varieties, there are dozens of white truffles as well. A
common mistake made by truffle consumers is to mis-identify
truffle products (pastes, oils, etc.) containing "white truffle" as
containing the prized white truffle Tuber magnatum pico. By
far the majority of white truffle products marketed contain the
inexpensive Tuber albidum pico truffle (also known as the
bianchetto (whitish) and the Marzuolo (March) truffle for the month
in which it is ripe). Be sure there is no comparison. Whether or not
a consumer enjoys the sensation of Tuber albidum pico
truffles (we emphatically do not), there is no mistaking them for
the luscious, heady aroma and flavor of the true Tuber magnatum
pico white truffle. As for whether the white Tuber magnatum
pico or black Tuber melanosporum reigns supreme, well you'll have to
try them both at their peak and see for yourself!
Black
Summer Truffles
During the summer months
and well into Autumn we find the Tuber aestivum black
summer truffle in abundance. They look vaguely similar to the
melanosporum with larger, more pronounced warting and a light center
(gleba) with less pronounced veining. Black summer truffles are
tasty and faintly reminiscent of their winter kin - try them shaved
over a salad of tiny greens if you find them fresh. Most "black
truffle" based products (pastes, butters, tapenades and
such) are in fact summer black truffle based. If the label does
not state Tuber melanosporum explicitly then you can be
sure the truffles are of the cheap and plentiful summer variety and
you should pay accordingly. 
Grading Truffles
Truffles are graded in France as either
Extra, Category 1, Category 2 or Unclassified. We only sell
Category 1 and Extra grade truffles. The chief difference between
Category 1 and Extra being minimum size (Extra truffles must weight
at least 30 grams - approximately the size of a ping-pong ball) and
shape (Extra truffles must have a "beautiful round shape" - again
think ping-pong ball.) Also, Extra grade truffles permit "very
slight" as opposed to "slight" defects - the line between
"very slight" and "slight" changes throughout the season and
from season to season.
We do not limit ourselves to Extra
grade exclusively because some of the criteria (e.g. roundness) have
no culinary merit. In the case of size, we do believe that
30-40 grams (1-1.4 oz.) is an excellent range (very small truffles
are hard to handle and lack that "wow factor", very large truffles
have a lower percentage of surface area which is where aroma is
most concentrated.) However, as we sell by weight, and as we refuse
to ship you less than you paid for, a range of truffle sizes
including some under 30 grams allows us to fulfill your order
fairly.
As for defects, we select truffles that
are relatively defect-free. We are not willing, however, to pass up
a mature truffle with an intense bouquet just because it has some
minor flaws. Often the most perfect looking truffles are
those that are picked while still "green" - which will never
develop their full aroma potential. We think you'll agree that aroma
and flavor are what matter most in selecting outstanding
truffles.
Storing Truffles
Fresh truffles should be stored in a
cool, dark place. We suggest wrapping your truffles
individually in unbleached paper towels and refrigerating inside of
a sealed glass container. Fresh truffles should be used within 7-10
days of being harvested.
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